Xiao Wen Ju photographed by Michael O’Neal for Vogue
tumblr probably gonna lose its shit
been wanting tbh
Maison Martin Margiela spring—summer 1997.
Various elements, from the varying stages of an atelier’s work, are pinned on the mould of a tailor’s dummy (or dress form) in rough linen. The garments are to be worn as if still under construction.
After years of ‘deconstruction’ Martin Margiela presented in his 1997 summer collection ‘fashion under construction’, which he christened ‘semi-couture’. This is more of an idea or concept than a garment. And with it Margiela is entering the domain of conceptualism. Parts of garments — half a back panel or a quarter of drapery — are pinned on to a basic vest, which in turn is modelled on and evokes the stockman. The clothes are worn in the state they would be in at the preparatory stage.
According to Clement Greenberg the essential factor of modernism is the use of the resources which are characteristic of a discipline, in order to analyse that discipline. Martin Margiela does just that with his deconstructionist constructionism. Deconstruction with him is a formative detour. He does not propose an opposing or opposite fashion, but fashion that is different, experimental. And Martin Margiela goes on experimenting.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2015
(mina perhonen) light stickワンピース
(KIN キン) COLOR DAY BAG